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Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

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Knife Repair, Modification, Restoration & Improvement

This group is for knife enthusiasts who are interested in repairing, modifiying, restoring or improving knives, including fixed blades, folders and automatics of all types.

Location: Hillsboro, OR
Members: 125
Latest Activity: Mar 25

Discussion Forum

Premium Knife supply - Blade blanks for customization

Started by Brad T.. Last reply by John McCain Mar 15. 61 Replies

Over the last week I acquired 4 blade blanks for customization. The materials they use for their "S" line of products are 440C, manufactured in China.The ones I selected are pictured below:…Continue

Tags: Customize, handles, Supply, Knife, blanks

Plum Wood Scales on my CRKT "Lift Off" Tactical

Started by Pat Kennedy. Last reply by D ale Feb 11. 8 Replies

I wanted to add a custom touch to my CRKT Lift Off, so I made a set of scales using some small pieces of plum wood that I had from a tree I removed from the yard several years ago. It's my first attempt at scale replacement, so the results aren't…Continue

Scale Replacement

Started by D ale. Last reply by Jack Haskins, Jr. Feb 9. 20 Replies

I'm putting different scales on a lever-lock.Thought I'd post some picsThis…Continue

OTF .. double action .. exposed.

Started by D ale. Last reply by Steve Hanner Nov 10, 2013. 4 Replies

I have a keen interest in the locking mechanisms of an auto. My learning process began with their disassembly .. long before there existed any realistic hope of a successful reassembly. The internet made it easier to access…Continue

George Schrade PRESTO .. rebuild.

Started by D ale. Last reply by D ale Nov 3, 2013. 5 Replies

A George Schrade PRESTO. Substantial rust & failed spring were just begging for a rebuild .. big smile !!!This pic is after an initial cleaning & has the pin used for retaining the spring removed .. reference empty hole in scale.…Continue

Tags: presto, schrade, george

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Comment by Jack Haskins, Jr. on March 25, 2014 at 9:06

Oops, I forgot to type words. :)

Spyderco Dragonfly 2 handle with ironwood scales and birch backspacer. I think I'll carry this for a while. It works really well.  Perfectly in fact. Even if a knife looks nice I hate carrying it if it has a performance problem.  This one opens/closes great.  Lockup is solid and when it closes it has a lot of pop to it and more than enough springiness holding it closed.

Jack

Jack

Comment by Jack Haskins, Jr. on March 25, 2014 at 9:03

Comment by Jan Carter on February 13, 2014 at 20:31

Because you have a whole shop out there you thought would come in handy ?  LOL!

I am glad your liking working with them Brad!  I like what your doing with them


Featured
Comment by Brad T. on January 20, 2014 at 15:51

Received this from Premium knife supply. 440C Guthook skinner, hardened, tempered and sharpened ready for a handle. Why didn't I think of this 2 years ago.

Comment by Jan Carter on January 16, 2014 at 17:04

manager
Comment by Steve Hanner on November 22, 2013 at 12:09

OK I see what you did Vance to sand it flush. Well that is a great question actually...how do you get it flush if you do not sand?


KnifeMaker
Comment by Vance Wade Hinds on November 21, 2013 at 18:56

Thanks for the reply Peter.  The razor method sounds awesome.  I can't wait to try it on another jack knife that I have.  To answer your question about the jigging, I tried to get the joint between the bone and the bolster to be where you couldn't feel it.  I was using a large diameter wheel on the grinder.  I though it would also clean up the pin.   I don't know.  This is the first time I have tried to repair a pocket knife.    I appreciate all of the advice.  I need all I can get.   Thanks.

Comment by peter force on November 20, 2013 at 23:50

HEY- first of hope all is well!!!

TO ANSWER your question - about drilling out the pins. i have taken apart knives only to restore them and im far from a professional and still will send them out when i want the knife done very well. so this might be a crude way of doing it but it works very well fpor me.... plus in HOW TO BOOKS-by some of the great makers - i have seen the RAZOR method work ... and it works very easy.

1.align razor {yes like a gillette razor ,just the blade of course. i have a home made razor mount that i use so you can easily swap out the razors.. and packs and packs of old razors from ebay cost less the drill buits{remember boken drill bits make excellent pins themselves-dont waste them!} ...so first off you want to make sure the razor blade is not going anywhere.so lock it down good somwhere sharpened edge facing UP!.. i have seen some just place razor between the liner and spring and with just a few taps sperate enitre knife but the razor blade goes flying ...lol..not good...

as well as i have seen folks use HAND HELD razors for opening boxes-this can work sometimes pretty well as you just tap on the back of the BOX-CUTTER..

now i would just take the knife ,slip the edge of the raozr between the liners and whatever else you want to seperate and just tap your way though. the razor will cut the pins on the way down...y0u will of course know when you hit another pins. you will need to tap a litlle harder but through the entire process you want to tap slowly ..even when you hit the pins..the razor blade will after a few taps cut the pin and continue down the liner.

2. after you tap the knife down the raozrs edge all the way-and you do it through the rest of the knife the knife will almost just fall apart.the bolsters will still be on the liners.if you need to take the bolsters off-{small other lesson for that.}

3.just use a TAP to knock out the rest of the pieces of pins.{i have never had to drill out a pin dues to the fact that their are only small pieces of pin material left after doing it this way.} some will tap at once.some may get stubborn...you may need to file it a little ... their are so many tricks to restoring knives.. i dont have much time now and im just getting back into taking some CELLULOID knnives apart {that i can handle} and others im sending out.

i have one question. this is just me and the hafting job looks good- but i see that the bone is jigged from end to end. when using bone i always go with leaving the jig from bolster to bolster.. was their a reason you didnt...just a prefernce?..just wondering thats all. reagrdless keep it up...restoring knives is another entire part of the hobby that i love. also can save ya tons of money!!...when i was restroing i bought mostly junkers and eventually you will have parts that you can mix and match.. alsywas good if your gonna really get into retsoring as a hobby to mark with a sharpie on any exces pieces/if you make single blade jack knife out of a TL-29..which makes a great jack!..you might wanna mark on the screwdriver blade .which knife and mayybe which year it came out of -so later down the road if you need to repair a TL-29 that needs a screwdriver blade you all set!...i still have a baggy of just all liners...LOL!

KEEP UP THE AWESOME WORK VANCE!!


KnifeMaker
Comment by Vance Wade Hinds on November 20, 2013 at 22:23

Thanks for the reply.  I will get me some center drills. I just finished the handle repair.  Instead of drilling out the pins, iI cut off the scale pins and sanded the backspring pin to where it would fit through a hole.  I was able to get the new slabs on but I have a couple of questions.  My biggest problem was that the epoxy did not hold in the middle of one of the slabs.  Did I not put enough epoxy on?  The epoxy I am using is several years old, is there a shelf life?  Secondly, what is the best way to cut out the hole for the shield inlay? I kind of eye-balled it and made it too big.  I am happy with the way the red bone jigged scales from Culpepper turned out.  I ended up drilling the handle pins all the way through, then cutting off the pins on the inside with the dremel and filed them down.  Is there an easier way to pin the slabs on without taking the knife apart, or do most people take the knife completely apart?  

  

Comment by Daniel Howland on November 13, 2013 at 16:41

Vance,

I use a center drill because it is sturdy and will not drift. I go just deep enough to clean out the peened pin then press it through. You can follow my step by step process on a balisong, Hope this helps. http://www.iknifecollector.com/photo/albums/how-to-repin-a-balisong

 
 
 

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