Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on June 26, 2013 at 17:23

Permalink Reply by Steve Hanner on June 26, 2013 at 17:56

That is really well done, quite a bit of detail there.

Permalink Reply by john6553 on June 27, 2013 at 8:28

The knife looks like the day it came from the factory and that box is way cool too. Great job! The stag scales look awesome. They have excellent color and texture. The nickel silver bolsters polished up nicely as did the stainless blades.

Permalink Reply by Jack Pappy Lewis on June 28, 2013 at 10:00

john6553 said:

The knife looks like the day it came from the factory and that box is way cool too. Great job! The stag scales look awesome. They have excellent color and texture. The nickel silver bolsters polished up nicely as did the stainless blades.

That is sweet !  I am currently working on a Schrade Uncle Henry, folder, that was cast into the garbage after our neighbor had passed on. He used it in the concrete business for years, I am wanting to resotre it using African Blackwood for the handles and Elephant Ivory for the emblem, opposite the side where the original will be, I have a question for Mr. Eduardo; How do I drill out the ends without damaging them? I guess you cal then the bolsters?

Permalink Reply by Jan Carter on June 29, 2013 at 18:04

Pappy,

You got an answer fro Dale for your question.  It is here

http://www.iknifecollector.com/group/kniferepairrestorationupgradeg...

Permalink Reply by Jack Pappy Lewis on June 29, 2013 at 18:19

Thank you Dale for your help in this matter, the Schrade is a #227UH older and used, but hopefully when I get her finished she will look like a mint!

Attachments:

• Project891.png, 519 KB

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 29, 2013 at 21:07

That's a nice folding hunter you have there !!!

It is NOT one of the models I was thinking of. The one in your pic has a pivot pin through the blades and bolster.

Could you possible get a better .. closer detail .. shot of the bolster area ?? 

Specifically .. look for the "slightly different color" solid circle near the center of the bolster .. that will be the end of the pivot pin .. &  get a shot of that area if possible.

You should be able to push that pin out .. once you drill one side just enough to get past the area @ the end that was expanded during the peening process. 

Might I inquire what tools you have available. The basic process is the same .. rather you've just the basic hand tools ..or.. full blown machine shop. The explanation is not. 

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 30, 2013 at 8:54

Also .. might I suggest ..... 

Fellow member DanielHowland's posting on "How to re-pin a Balisong"

.. good info applicable to your question !!!

i.e. gotta remove the old pin before one can re-pin.

Permalink Reply by Jack Pappy Lewis on June 30, 2013 at 8:56

I found the pins on the bolster. Like you were saying they are a bit different in coloring so it wasn't too difficult to see them under magnification. I have a drill press and machinist vise so it shouldn't be a problem drilling out the depth you suggested. Is there any indication as to which side was peened? Or maybe they did both sides? However, I will be working on her this afternoon and send pics. Thanks again for your advice and helpful information!

In MemoriamPermalink Reply by D ale on June 30, 2013 at 9:10

Both sides will have been peened, Jack.

Should one end of the pin appear to be inset from the surrounding surface of the bolster .. that would be the side I would drill .. as it (the pin's migration inwards) would indicate less expansion on that end of the pin .. thereby requiring less drilling / drilling to a shallower depth .. to get past the point of expansion & down to the original diameter of the pin. 

I would seriously look @ Dan's examples of how he removed the pins from the balisong he was re-pinning. 

Good info BEFORE you start !!

Best of luck removing the old pivot pin !!!

Permalink Reply by Bob Robinson on July 9, 2013 at 12:43

Nice work!!