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Knife Photography

For discussions about equipment, tips and techniques for taking good knife pictures. All levels of photographers welcome!!

Members: 77
Latest Activity: Apr 27

Discussion Forum

Photo Light Set-Up

Started by Johnny Stout. Last reply by Jan Carter Dec 24, 2012. 15 Replies

Here is my current light set-up...about 10 years of upgrades and accumulation!! I'm using 3 Alien Bee strobe lights with 2 Soft boxes, also a defuser for the main strobe. My current camera is a Canon…Continue

New pics of knives

Started by David Villiard. Last reply by Le Coutographe Nov 21, 2012. 14 Replies

Hello all. I just got a couple of remote flashes (SB600) for my Nikon D70S. For those of you who are not familiar, they work remotely (wirelessly) with the onboard flash. By using two of them set on…Continue

A quick setup in the shop

Started by Mike Carter. Last reply by Steve Hanner Nov 17, 2012. 1 Reply

Continue

Tips and Techniques

Started by Trent Rock. Last reply by D ale May 14, 2012. 24 Replies

J.J. says take your knife pics outdoorsI can go with that!!On a CLOUDY day is best"They say"It does seem like glare is definitely a issue with knife picsI always spend a lot of time trying to adjust…Continue

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manager
Comment by Steve Hanner on February 17, 2013 at 19:35

Hope you like it as much as I do Jan. Its small and light weight yet seems to do closeups wayyy better! I am thinking I should retake some of my bad pics to get better ones.

Comment by Jan Carter on February 17, 2013 at 15:06

That video Andy had shows a great way to use the light box!

Rusty..I always love your pics, the knives come out very clear

Hog, Thats the same camera we bought


manager
Comment by Steve Hanner on February 17, 2013 at 13:32

Nice picture there Rusty, I like that grouping of 3.

OK well I finally had to buy a new camera, as my old one showed way too much blue, which I could take out using a photo editor but what a pain that was. Si finally got a new camera. Its a Nikon Cool Pix. Now it is not the most expensive setup but I assure you it takes way better pictures. In the latest round of shooting I did, I could see dust on the blade. Here is a link to my review and the pics: http://www.iknifecollector.com/forum/topics/a-g-russellm-orca-frame...

Comment by Rusty R Halsey on February 7, 2013 at 7:00

 That was an interesting video, Andy.  How are the LED's working?  You may have to post a pic of your set-up when you are ready.  I'm still using the same old overhead fluorescent set-up.

Comment by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on December 16, 2012 at 3:06

Here is a neat 20" (0.5m) light cube from Westcott, and a video from a pro on how to build a light source. I'm now playing around with that setup. I added a strip of six blocks of 3 bright LEDs each, a total of 18 white LEDs which uses about 0.25A at 12VDC. I added this as my top light. Take a look at the short video in case this neat setup may be of interest:

http://fjwestcott.com/?s=digitent&submit.x=0&submit.y=0

I have this equipment now, have built an LED top light, and will be trying to use it to improve my really mediocre photography this weekend.


manager
Comment by Steve Hanner on December 8, 2012 at 19:08

That is interesting take on it Andy. When you break it down it does makes sense although i wonder what the odds are of hitting that dark moment? Although I guess you could have theoretical "phases of darkness and light" Really only a virtually static display of light would give you the exact light for every shot. What you built should work well.

Comment by Andy Voelkle "AxeMan" on December 8, 2012 at 18:52

I've been building some high-power white LED lights, and I've run into an interesting function of the power supply for the LEDs and the high-speed shutter of most new cameras.

An unfiltered supply tends to produce 60 or 120 pulses (little "hills") of voltage each second, while the camera lens is open (at, say, a 1/60 sec exposure) for just the duration of one pulse of voltage.

Incandescent lamps have pretty even illumination because the filaments do not cool down much between the 60/120 ㎐ pulses of voltage. However, LEDs have instant response, so their brightness follows the voltage curve quickly and for all purposes, exactly.

Therefore, a well-crafted system might supply almost no voltage during a quick exposure, and the LEDs might be fully-illuminated, or almost dark, during a 1/500 sec exposure. The use of heavy capacitive filters is necessary. I also built a power converter which runs at 20,000 Hz and thus requires no capacitor bank on the final LED supply. It's an AC₆₀-DC-AC₂₀₀₀₀-DC system (no other reference implied...).

Comment by Jan Carter on December 8, 2012 at 15:40

Very Good Alexander.  Any settings that surprised you, how well they worked?


KnifeMaker
Comment by Alexander Noot on December 7, 2012 at 7:57

Hey Le Coutographe,

I'm not entirely sure what it's called. But it's one of the folding/portable variety. With 4 colour backrounds and two halogen lamps and a base for a compact camera.

At the moment I'm not really busy with composition of the photo as I am in trying to figure out what settings to shoot with.

I'm not a photographer, I just want to be able to take some decent pictures of my knives.

I'll be playing around with it a little bit more in the coming weeks. And maybe for some pictures I'll add props in the future. For now I just want to capture as much detail of the knives I'm shooting.

Comment by Le Coutographe on December 7, 2012 at 2:31

@Alexander,

picture is nice but a little bit empty (except of course for this wonderful knife).

- What kind of light box did you get ??

 
 
 

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